Certified Pre-Owned and Used Car questions...
Afternoon all. I figure i'd make a thread here, as this has nothing to do with the 2012 Car Thread in General...
So, my current vehicle is a MZB 2000 ML430. I bought it used with 68k. All in all, it has been a pure lemon. Its nearing 90k now. I've been planning on purchasing a new/used/cert. pre-owned for sometime. I've test drove a good amount. Every vehicle I drove that wasn't a BMW, Benz, VW or Audi just felt like pure shit, and uncomfortable. The majority of cars I tried are too cramped (I'm a football player).
So, I have some general questions. First off, what the hell exactly is the difference between certified pre-owned and a used? I have been looking at some cert pre-owned, and used vehicles. Mostly Audi's and VW's. For example, I found a nice 2006 Audi A3 with 74k on it. I'm just wondering if it will end up like my Benz, and start completely falling apart. My budget is 20k$ or less, preferably less. Are there some universal maintenance problems to expect with all vehicles nearing a certain milage? Or is it purely situational and unique for every vehicle?
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No, rebuilt cars/titles will never be covered under factory warranty, its always good to know what type of damage was done to the car before it was rebuilt, could of had frame damage, major electrical issues ect. I would stray away from anything that had any type of serious damage, most insurance companies will only salvage a car, if the cost of the damage is as much or more to fix that the blue book value of the car, sometimes you will get lucky with a hail damage, light flooding, or minor body damage, when buying a rebuilt, but you always want to ask/check! There is no way to ripped off on a rebuilt car unless you dont personally look at the title before the transaction, all rebuilt vehicles have it printed right on them. Keep in mind unless you plan to keep the car for a very long time, salvaged/rebuilt titles can lower the value of a car up too 50% even with a proper restore. Years ago i heard something about shops rebuilding cars and x-fering the titles to states that did not have rebuilt titles, then forcing them to reclean the title to normal and selling them for normal book values, not sure the story holds true now or not, but i would def check how your state's salvage/rebuild policy is.
I've learned a few things over the years about cars/trucks, always take a mechanicly inclined friend when checking out a vehicle you might buy, if you don't know that much about motor vehicle mechanics, always check out consumer reviews and specific recalls for that year/make/model, know that domestic vehicle parts and service cost less, and foreign cost more and last but not least, you get what you pay for! If you are getting a GREAT deal, there is probably a reason why, (previously wrecked, rebuilt title, internal engine or tranny issues, ect ect)
AnonSalvage title will void warranty, the car was totaled for one reason or another, flood ,accident, in any case yes it will void the warranty.
AnonHey kid, I bet your ML also needs rear springs. Look carefully at the coils in the rear, particularly at the bottom, see if they are stacked on top of each other and you'll probably see a broken coil. If not, its coming Ive had to do it on every 163 chassis car Ive ever worked on.
Step up to a Truck or SUV! Cars are for girls!!!
tread-mTHIS!
Anonyou two are funny.
Truth is I dont see how you can own a house without owning a pickup, but the other truth is Im glad its not my only vehicle. Cars are vastly superior in snow and on the highway. Dont get me wrong, if theres a foot of snow Im taking the chevy home, but during any normal snow I'll take an Audi , Subaru or and other 4wd car any day.
Funniest bumper sticker ever on an F350 crew cab " I drive a big truck to compensate for my small penis"
AnonCPO warranty should be valid at any dealer
AnonWell most of the cars that will be certified will be low miles. It sounds like for you a warranty is key here, a nice low miles private sale could be great but you are taking a bigger gamble.
Whatever you buy, understanding how to get it serviced will help you greatly. I still cant believe it when I see cars going to the quicky lube, and the tire shops. People bitch about the dealers but now a days most dealers are pretty honest and on top of their game.
All of those choices should give you a bare minimum of 100k miles without a hitch, so how many miles do you drive a year ? 20k ? So if you found a Camry with 50k you'd know you should get 2.5 more years without trouble.
The best thing now is for you to go test drive a few cars. Each car feels a little different and its more important that you like driving the car. So even if its the wrong color or not the right price, just go test drive the different models. Test driving is free !
my family is in the auto business. they have computers to roll the miles back for most brands you'll come across in the us...
AnonWell it sounds like a few odd extras went wrong, but it also sounds like you are in a very common position of having bought in to the high end brand, but not being able to afford the upkeep.
You should have been able to get 30k out of a set of brakes on that car, thats not too bad.
Serpentine belts almost never snap, they jump off and shred because a bearing failed in a pulley, but they normally warn you with a fair amount of noise first.
The seat issue may be as simple as error codes in the SAM (one of the control modules). There are built in safeties that stop a motor from running if it detects any obstruction.
Toyota is a good choice but in the last few years they have had their fair share of quality control issues. Honda would also be something you might want to consider. Either one only takes four quarts of oil as opposed to the 8.5 in your ML plus the filter for your ml is 15.00 whereas the filter for a Camry is 7.00. So right there you'll start saving .
Also give thought to the ease of which you'll have access to the dealer for service. In other words if you lived 1/2 hour away from the Toyota, but only 10 minutes from Honda , Id consider that.
A certified pre owned warranty is great, but very often they sell additional warranties by aftermarket warranty companies (like TENECO or GE Capital). Those are never as good, and often have gaps in coverage.
AnonThese are exactly the cars I work on every day to earn my living, I'll be happy to help you with anything I can but I have to run right now. I'll be back home tonight.
In the mean time be prepared to tell me what maintenance "nightmares" you had on the ML. We need to figure out if it was indeed a lemon or just routine stuff.
Certified pre owned and used are really the same thing, just marketed different. The certified pre owned cars are usually the cleanest of the leased cars getting turned back in.
If you are looking for size, longevity, and a pretty damn good ride, along with reasonable fuel mileage, take a look at an 04-05 Ford Excursion Diesel model.. the 6.0 has gotten a bad rap, but with a couple tweaks is a super dependable motor. Do a EGR Delete and Performance Machine oil cooler on the motor and its just about bullet proof. 300-400k life out of the motor with routine maint and 21-22 mpg at 65mph... cruise at 75-80 and it drops to around 18, still not too shabby for a 8000lb 4wd that will carry 7 full size alpha males in it with room to spare! The 2wd versions do even better on mpg, but I needed the 4wd, so that was never a consideration on my end. Do some shopping on Ebay, and should be able to find one with low 100k on it for 14-15,000, another $1500 for the egr delete and oil cooler and you are set. To answer your main question, while there are certain items that are lifespanned around 75-100k (O2 sensors, plugs, etc) for the most part it is situational for each vehicle.. the better maintained in early life, the better in later life. As for Cert vs. used, usually a cert car will be one owner, full records and meets certain criteria that the dealer or maker specifies, if it meets it, it is reconditioned (buff, polish, wax, shampooed, full service).. for the most part tho its a marketing ploy to get you to spend more $$ for a used car. If the records are there for a used one from an individual, you will get a better deal than buying at a dealer.
mr127superdeean audi with 74K on it will start craping out yes! once an audi nears 100k whoo forget about it transmissions are expensive on those cars
AnonIve got many customers with 150k plus on Audis, in fact one just sold his at 226k miles. None of them have needed transmissions.
biggerthanyouI really hate getting on a steroid website and seeing shit like this. Yes i know its allowed, doesnt mean i have to like it.
AnonWhats the problem ? Its in the off topic section and the guys just looking for info /advice ?
Certified pre owned has to meet certain guidlines to be certified, mainly mileage.and goes through a strict inspection by dealer, and only the maker of the car can certify it.for example only honda can certifty a honda.so don't be fooled by salesman.and you wull get a warranty on a certified car.
MultipurposeExactly, I work for Toyota, most important thing about buying a certified is that it comes with a warranty.